All About Eyes - What Causes Dark Circles and How to Treat Them
It is Audrey Hepburn who said, "the beauty of a woman must be seen from in her eyes because that is the doorway to her heart, the place where love resides." With such emphasis and importance placed on one's eyes, it seems we must do everything possible to ensure our eyes and the area around them don't age ahead of the rest of our face and body -- and that when they do, they do so gracefully. While you will need an ophthalmologist to ensure your vision is in tip-top shape, I've asked leading dermatologists and plastic surgeons, Dr. Michael H. Gold and Dr. Ulysses H. Scarpidis, to help me to provide you with all the information you need to treat your under eye dark circles like a boss!
Causes of Dark Circles and How to Treat Them
As far as eye issues go, this is the one that is quickest and easiest to hide. A few quick pats of the right color corrector and concealer and you are bright-eyed and ready to take on the world. While covering dark circles is good in the short term, erasing or reducing them is definitely preferred.
All dark circles are not created equal?
Dr. S: All dark circles are not created equal. Genetics can play a significant role in the appearance of dark circles in younger patients. Some families have pigmentation abnormalities or sun sensitivity causing dark circles. Fatigue is another reason for dark circles under the eyes. Puffiness from fatigue-induced swelling or under-eye bags can worsen the appearance of dark circles by creating shadows. Also, older patients typically have thinner, more translucent skin that magnifies the tiny blood vessels found around the eye. These patients also tend to have leaky micro blood vessels that stain the skin with iron found in blood, much like with a bruise. This iron staining can last for weeks.
Dr. G: Some are genetically pre-determined, and others are from extrinsic aging, such as weight gain or not hydrating the body enough. But most dark circles have a genetic cause, and the prominence of them is probably due to both intrinsic and extrinsic aging for most people.
When looking for products to topically treat dark circles, what key ingredients should we seek out, and why?
Dr. S: The key to a successful treatment is to identify the cause of your dark circles correctly. All in all, a combination of rest to reduce blood pressure and minimize blood vessel engorgement, sleeping on your back to reduce overall facial and eyelid swelling, and products that help restore eyelid skin thickness and constrict blood vessels will significantly improve dark circles.
A consultation with a Board Certified Plastic Surgeon will help you determine the cause of your dark circles and the appropriate treatment. While one eye cream may work miracles on one patient's dark circles, this doesn't mean it's the best treatment for yours. When enlarged blood vessels are responsible for dark circles, I recommend to my patients' products with Caffeine and other constricting ingredients, such as the Neocutis Micro-Eyes Rejuvenating Cream. This cream has peptides that help build collagen and elastin in the lower eyelid skin, further cushioning the discoloration caused by blood vessels. Some products utilize a cold roller applicator that can also temporarily constrict under-eye blood vessels. Topical hyaluronic acids plump and super-moisturize the skin, further reducing dark circles.
Dr. G: There is no magic potion for fixing dark circles. You can use growth factors and antioxidants to help improve skin texture and tone. Many people use hydroquinone or other bleaching agents, and sometimes these can be effective but not always. Eye creams moisturize, and the use of moisturizers is helpful but not curative in many. Some people have darkening and bags under the eyes because of what is going on with the fat pads under the skin, and this is where our energy-based devices like the EndyMed iFine and, on occasion, surgery are needed.
If topical solutions fail, are there safe surgical options to explore? If yes, what are they?
Dr. G: Radiofrequency (RF) skin tightening as with the iFine from EndyMed is an excellent non-invasive option. I would highly recommend patients try this before surgery, which not everyone needs.
Dr. S: When creams are not enough, minimally invasive procedures can help improve dark circles. Injectable hyaluronic acid acts as a cushion under the skin while stretching and compressing blood vessels to diminish their contribution to dark circles. Belotero is an ultra-smooth Hyaluronic Acid that works great to reduce dark circles and give a natural under eye result.
What are the risks of these procedures?
Dr. G: Virtually none when done by technicians skilled in the use of RF around the eyes. We find the procedures produce a warm sensation on the skin, and if done correctly, RF is a safe and effective treatment.
Dr. S: While many of the thicker hyaluronic acids can sometimes produce a bluish hue under the eyelid skin, called the Tindel Effect, I have never experienced this effect with Belotero. Ultimately, some patients may need to undergo blepharoplasty surgery to remove the under-eye bags and tighten the eyelid skin, if less invasive treatments prove insufficient.
Eye Cream Recommendation for Dark Circles
Neocutis Micro Eyes by Lumiere, $106
OLEHENRIKSEN Banana Bright Eye Crème, $38
Clinique Even Better Eyes Dark Circle Corrector, $42
PERRICONE MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Smoothing & Brightening Under-Eye Cream, $122
Part 2 of this feature will cover Causes of Under Eye Bags and How to Treat Them
Dr. Michael H. Gold is the founder and medical director of Gold Skin Care Center, Advanced Aesthetics Medical Spa, The Laser & Rejuvenation Center, and Tennessee Clinical Research Center in Nashville, Tennessee.
Dr. Ulysses D. Scarpidis is a leading board-certified plastic surgeon who sits at the helm of Scarpidis Aesthetics in New York City. He specializes in cosmetic procedures that enhance all areas of the face and body.
*This post first appeared on ThisThatBeauty.com