What is Dermarolling? 

Dermarolling, Microneedling, or Collagen Induction Therapy (also known as the Vampire Facial) is a procedure by which dozens of tiny needles are inserted into the skin. The microscopic punctures created by the dermarolling or microneedling device induces collagen and elastin production as they heal. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body. It gives our skin strength and elasticity -- it basically holds our skin together. It’s the thing that makes skin look firm, plump, and bouncy. 

In our youth, collagen is abundant, and we think it’s never going to run out. As we get older, it starts to diminish, so we start doing weird stuff like poking ourselves in the face hundreds of times to trick our bodies into thinking it's young again. Picture that! (Beauty can be PAINFUL! 😖) ⠀

The increase in collagen and elastin production that happens after mircroneedling is an ideal treatment for fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, uneven tone, texture, acne scars, and more. Microneedling also significantly boosts the absorption of skincare products. 

If you pay attention to celebrity news, you may have noticed that Kim K, who helped to popularize microneedling back in 2013, is suing a doctor who used her Vampire Facial image in an ad without her consent. That image introduced many people to microneedling in late 2013. Since then, dermarollers have been trending with at-home rollers hitting Amazon, Ulta, and even your local Marshalls. What has not made the rounds as quickly is WHY we dermaroll and HOW we can safely and effectively do it at home. For expert advice and tips on microneedling at home, I reached out to Sorelle Jones Cooper, board-certified Family Nurse Practitioner, and Aesthetic Injector. 

Who can benefit from Dermarolling at-home?

Microneedling is a great way to stimulate the skin, encourage circulation, and promote collagen production. It's an easy way to help improve skin turgor (elasticity) and prevent fine lines and wrinkles. Therefore, most people are good candidates for treatment. Having a consultation with your practitioner will assist in determining if the procedure is right for you. 

What size needle should you use on your face, and why?

Although best left to the professionals, at-home users can safely dermaroll at depths up to 0.25 mm. I would recommend using your roller once weekly. Users can roll up to this depth without any pain as well.  However, dangers lie in the inability to ensure that consistent depths are being maintained with an at-home dermaroller.  

Depths up to 1 mm can be used for mild scarring from acne, stretch marks, surgical scars. There may be some mild-moderate discomfort when needling at this depth. For more in-depth dermatologic concerns such as deep acne scarring, rosacea, hair loss, etc., greater depths of needle penetration are needed (1.5 mm and higher) to provoke rapid cell turnover. It is recommended that any treatment involving depths of greater than 0.25 mm be delivered by a licensed professional to avoid risks such as inflammation, hyperpigmentation, and infection.  

Collagen production and anti-wrinkle effects can be stimulated at very shallow depths, so users shouldn't be tempted to needle more deeply than necessary – this only increases the risk of adverse effects in unskilled hands.  

Should you use a derma roller if you have acne-prone skin or an active breakout?

Microneedling can be used on acne-prone skin but should not be used during an active breakout because of the risk of depositing bacteria into the deeper skin layers. Additionally, people who are on certain acne control medications such as retinoids and should be careful when needling as they may experience skin irritation due to increased skin sensitivity.  Those on Accutane (isotretinoin) should avoid use until they have been off the medication for 6 months. 

What products are best to use before and after dermarolling, and why?

The skin should be thoroughly cleansed before dermarolling to remove bacteria. Dermarolling is a great way to deliver skin products into the deeper layers of the skin, thus encouraging greater absorption. Your provider may use serums such as Vitamin E and small amounts of Vitamin C and retinoids during the procedure as well to brighten skin, encourage cell turnover, and correct pigmentary issues. Following the procedure, it's important to put products on the skin that will not inflame it. I love to bathe the skin in Hyaluronic acid during and following the procedure because of its intense hydrating action. Always cover the skin with a physical sunscreen (Zinc or Titanium) following the procedure if there will be sun exposure (yes, even the little bit while driving) as the skin is also more vulnerable to skin damage following needling procedures.

How often should you dermaroll your face?

At lower depths, rolling can be done 1-2 times/week. Depths of 0.5 mm can be applied every 2-4 weeks and microneedling at depths of 1.0, and greater should be repeated no more than every 4 weeks.

What are the side effects of dermarolling?

Fortunately, there are few side effects to this procedure when performed properly. Users should be prepared to have some redness, which can last up to 3 days for deeper skin treatments. There may be some mild peeling that occurs in the days following the treatments as well. If the user becomes overzealous with the treatment, they can spark inflammation which can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This could take months to correct or longer. 

How long after dermarolling treatment does it take to see results?

People can often begin to see results 2-8 weeks following consistent treatments. Remember, you are building new tissue. Rome wasn't built in a day and neither will your collagen. Be patient and remember consistency is key! 

How long do the results last?

The collagen production will continue for several months, however, the "glow" and taught feeling of the skin will fade within 3-4 weeks of the treatment. This is why it's advised that you have multiple treatments and excellent skin care at home for daily use to boost and preserve the results achieved with your procedure.

What's the best way to sanitize your derma roller before and after use?  

Wash with warm water, and soap then bathe it with or soak it in alcohol and allow to air dry.  Never share your roller!

Which is better, titanium or stainless-steel derma rollers, and why?

While titanium is a harder and more durable substance, stainless steel is easier to keep clean and free of rust and corrosion. Because the last thing you want to do is introduce unwanted substances or particles into the layers of your skin, I'd recommend stainless steel rollers every time.

Microneedling patches are also having a moment. We see them offered for under-the-eye, smile lines, dark spots, and pimples. Can you please weigh in on the efficacy of single-use microneedling patches?

The depth of penetration into the skin is probably minimal and so the treatments may have minor and short-lived benefits, although the risk is probably pretty low.

The Takeaway

You will get no judgment from us about doing what's necessary to help you feel your most beautiful. Our only aim is to arm you with factual information so that you can make informed decisions about your skin. According to Sorelle Jones Cooper, “microneedling performed by trained skincare professional is highly favored over at-home derma-rolling because of the higher ability to control depth of skin penetration and reduce the potential for adverse effects.  There are many more options for stimulating collagen and promoting a youthful appearance that doesn’t carry the same risk of skin damage and other complications as derma-rolling. Persons who engage in derma-rolling should do so with caution and take care to adhere to recommendations to keep to lower depths (0.25 mm or less).

If you choose to dermaroll at home, follow these steps:

1. Use dermarollers with needles no longer than .25 mm.

2. Dermaroll no more than once per week.

3. Patch test any product before using on freshly dermarolled skin. (Skin is more sensitive and more prone to irritation.)

4. Properly cleanse and sanitize your dermaroller before and after each use. (See question 9 above)  

5. Follow usage recommendations on the number of times each dermaroller can be used. (The ones we've seen recommend no more than 5 uses.)

6. Ensure you are following a proper skin care regimen with high-quality ingredients. 

7. Use sunscreen daily. 

8. When in doubt, stop and consult a professional.

9. Be patient.

10. Consult a doctor at the first sign of any unwanted reaction.

 Sorelle Jones Cooper is a board-certified Family Nurse Practitioner with more than 15 years of experience in healthcare. Sorelle holds a B.A. and a B.S. with honors from the State University of New York at Buffalo. A die-hard Brooklynite, the native New Yorker, moved to Maryland to attend graduate school at Johns Hopkins University, where she obtained a Master's of Science in Nursing. Sorelle is a DermCare Team Member of the American Academy of Dermatology and has a passion for working "in the spaces where medicine and aesthetics meet." Sorelle works as an independent contractor in the DC/MD/VA, servicing populations of all ages, races, and walks of life.  You may find her on Instagram as @Sorelle_NP.