When it comes to caring for skin and treating it to the best products nature and science have to offer, very rarely do we hear the term growth factors. In fact, it is something we've never directly addressed on FaceFlawlessSkin.com. We often laud the benefits of ingredients like Vitamin C, retinol, hyaluronic acid, and other more accessible ingredients in serums and creams. Today we feature growth factors, an ingredient that would fit seamlessly in any sci-fi flick, the discovery of which led to a Nobel Prize. We've asked Sorelle Jones-Cooper, board-certified Family Nurse Practitioner, and Aesthetic Injector to spill the tea on growth factors.

What are Growth Factors, and How Do They Work in Skincare?

SJC: Growth factors are substances that send signals to cells, stimulating actions such as growth, differentiation, proliferation, and healing. [Growth factors were discovered in the 1950s by Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini.] They act as messengers, telling cells to move through the cell cycle, divide and grow. They are integral to the processes of healing and repair in the skin. Growth factors have been gaining popularity for their promise to promote collagen production and produce thicker, healthier, younger-looking skin.

How are Growth Factors Produced? 

SJC: Some growth factors are proteins derived from human stem cells. Others are derived from other natural sources such as plants, animals, and bacteria or are engineered in laboratories. 

FFS NOTE:

Nerve Growth Factor (NGF) and Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) were two of the first discovered. The chemical structure of NGF consists of 118 amino acids and it “was first characterized from extracts of mouse salivary glands, but has been found in many other tissues.” EGF consists of 53 amino acids and its discovery also stemmed from research in mice. Both are also present in humans. In fact, hEGF (human EGF) is derived from a protein found in urine. (Golden shower, anyone? LOL)

Is There an Advantage to Using Growth Factors Derived From Human Cells to Those That are 100% Synthetic?

SJC: While there is some evidence to suggest that growth factors derived from human cells may be more active and work more efficiently, many people are uncomfortable with using skincare that has derived from the cell lines of other humans. That said, there have been studies that found significant improvement in skin quality from growth factors that were harvested from non-human sources.

How Stable are Growth Factors Once Added to Skincare Products?  

SJC: Growth factors can be used well with some skincare ingredients and not so well with others. The GF serum should be applied to skin right after cleansing and before any other skin preparations. It can be used with retinoids before bed, and moisturizers can also be layered over them. Acidic ingredients such as Vitamin C, glycolic, and lactic acids should be avoided because they don't play well with the growth factors.

How are Growth Factors Able to Penetrate the Skin to Repair Damage and Boost Collagen Production?

SJC: Growth factors (in skincare) actually don't do a great job of penetrating the skin because of their large molecular size. Researchers believe that when applied to the surface of the skin, growth factors incite a chain of signals that provokes increased growth factor production beneath the surface in the deeper layer of the skin, the dermis. This sparks quicker cell turnover and dermal repair, which can result in the wonderful skin results the user seeks. 

FFS NOTE:

The early study of growth factors was around wound healing and regeneration of damaged cells. The growth factors were injected into the affected area, not applied topically. According to this abstract from the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, "in spite of their large molecular weight, evidence suggests that a small fraction of topically applied Growth Factors penetrating into superficial epidermis can elicit a fibroblast-mediated response in the dermis." In other words, while only a small amount of the growth factors may be able to penetrate the skin, they spur the cells around them into action. 

How do Growth Factors Compare to Ingredients Like Retinol in Boosting Collagen Production and Smoothing and Firming Skin?  

SJC: Both ingredients can produce positive and desirable changes in the skin. Many people have a hard time tolerating retinols, no matter how they approach them. For those consumers, growth factors may provide an attractive alternative to achieve healthier and younger appearing skin. 

FFS NOTE:

There is some evidence to suggest that topical application of skincare products rich in growth factors provide statistically significant improvement in the skin around the eyes, including the formation of new collagen. This is important to note because other ingredients such as retinol that have been clinically proven to reduce the look of wrinkles and fine lines and boost collagen production tend to be very hard to tolerate around the eyes.

Are Growth Factors More Effective After Microdermabrasion or Microneedling? Please Explain.

SJC: Microneedling creates tiny, micro-injuries in the skin. When used at depths that reach the dermal layer of the skin, the procedure stimulates fibroblast activity and subsequent healing in the skin. The addition of growth factors can hasten this process and make it more effective in treating skin conditions such as acne scarring and hair loss. Autologous growth factors (i.e., platelet-rich plasma or PRP) are routinely used with microneedling for several anti-aging and dermatologic concerns. 

FFS NOTE:

There is sufficient evidence showing that growth factors can have a positive effect when topically applied to the skin. The efficacy comes down to the concentration of the growth factors included in the product and the formula in which it is used. We firmly believe that there is no one “magic” product that is going to give you amazing skin. While products containing growth factors can help to firm, smooth and plump skin, it is still up to you to ensure you have a complete regimen that will support overall skin health and beauty. That, of course, must include daily use of sunscreen.

Sorelle Jones Cooper is a board-certified Family Nurse Practitioner with more than 15 years of experience in healthcare. Sorelle holds a B.A. and a B.S. with honors from the State University of New York at Buffalo. A die-hard Brooklynite, the native New Yorker, moved to Maryland to attend graduate school at Johns Hopkins University, where she obtained a Master's of Science in Nursing. Sorelle is a DermCare Team Member of the American Academy of Dermatology and has a passion for working "in the spaces where medicine and aesthetics meet." Sorelle works as an independent contractor in the DC/MD/VA, servicing populations of all ages, races, and walks of life.  You may find her on Instagram as @Sorelle_NP.